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Most of what we sell is ready to run within an hour of the truck leaving. Lifts take a weekend and a helper. This page walks through each category step by step, lists the tools you need, and shows how to get a pro to do it if you would rather not.
You need at least 4 inches of 3,000 PSI reinforced concrete, cured 28 days or more, with no cracks, seams or expansion joints inside the post footprint. Confirm ceiling height (12 feet for most two-post lifts, 10 feet for low-rise and four-post models), and a 220V circuit within reach of the power unit. Run the site readiness checklist further down this page before you unpack.
Unpack, inventory every part against the packing list, and read the layout diagram. Chalk the centerline of the bay, measure the post spacing from the manual (typically 132 to 145 inches inside-to-inside), and square the layout with the 3-4-5 method or by matching diagonals to within 1/8 inch. Mark every anchor hole through the base plates.
Stand the powerside post first with two helpers or an engine hoist, then the offside. Drill anchor holes with a rotary hammer and the bit size specified (usually 3/4"), blow the dust out, and drive the wedge anchors. Shim under the base plates until each post is plumb in both directions, then torque the anchors to spec, commonly 85 to 150 ft-lb. Never grind the floor to level a post.
Mount the power unit to the powerside post, connect the hydraulic lines, and route the equalizer cables over the sheaves exactly as the diagram shows; a cable on the wrong side of a sheave will fray in weeks. Install the overhead beam or the floor plate and its safety shutoff. Fill the reservoir with AW32 hydraulic oil (not ATF unless the manual says so) and have your electrician connect the 220V single-phase feed on a dedicated breaker.
Raise the empty lift several times to purge air, adjust the equalizer cables so both carriages lock at the same height, and confirm every safety lock clicks in on the way up. Fit the arm restraints and pads, then test with a light vehicle at 12 inches, 36 inches and full height, checking for drift over 5 minutes at each stop. Re-torque the anchors after the first week of use and every 6 months after.
Cut the banding, remove the crate panels and the shrink wrap, and compare the machine, bucket, thumb, keys and manual against the packing list. Photograph the serial plate and hour meter. Check the tracks, cylinders and hoses for shipping damage before anything else; report it to us within 24 hours if you find any.
Machines ship with hydraulic oil and engine oil at the factory fill and a small amount of diesel, or dry. Check the engine oil, hydraulic sight glass and coolant, top up to the marks, and fill with clean ultra-low-sulfur diesel. Connect the battery (positive first, then negative) and confirm the terminals are tight and greased.
Measure track sag at the midpoint between the rollers; most compact machines want 10 to 20 mm. Adjust with the grease fitting on the track adjuster. Torque the track bolts, the bucket pins and the blade pivot to the values in the manual. Grease every fitting on the boom, arm, bucket and blade until fresh grease shows.
Turn the key to run, let the glow plugs cycle, and start. Idle for 5 minutes with no load while you check for leaks. Then work every control slowly through its full travel: boom, arm, bucket, swing, blade, both tracks and auxiliary hydraulics. Confirm the safety lever cuts the hydraulics and the hour meter is counting.
With the blade up and the boom tucked, track slowly off the pallet onto firm ground. For the first 20 hours run at no more than three-quarter throttle, avoid stall-out digging, and vary the load. Change the engine oil and hydraulic return filter at 50 hours; that service is required to keep the warranty in force.
Remove the crate and wrap, check the machine, bucket, quick-attach plate, keys and manual against the packing list, and photograph the serial plate. Inspect tracks, loader arms and the cylinders for any transport damage.
Check engine oil, hydraulic level and coolant; fill with fresh diesel or gasoline as the engine requires. Connect and tighten the battery. Set track tension to the manual's sag figure and grease all loader-arm and attachment pins.
Tilt the attachment plate forward, drive into the bucket's hooks, curl back and engage the locking pins; confirm both pins pass fully through the bucket flanges. Start the engine, warm it up, then cycle lift, tilt, both tracks and auxiliary flow. Check that the operator presence switch or platform sensor stops hydraulics when you step off.
Track off the pallet onto flat ground with the bucket a few inches up. Keep loads light for the first 10 hours and watch for leaks at every hose fitting after the machine is warm. Follow the manual's 50-hour first service (engine oil, hydraulic filter, track hardware re-torque).
Tractors ship with the ROPS folded, the steering wheel or seat sometimes removed, and the loader off or strapped down. Inventory everything, then bolt on the steering wheel, seat and mirrors, raise the ROPS and pin it upright. Torque all of it to the manual's values.
Check engine oil, transmission or hydraulic oil, coolant and front axle oil; top up and fuel with clean diesel. Connect the battery and set tire pressures (rear ag tires run low, typically 12 to 16 PSI; check the sidewall). If the loader ships separately, drive into the mounting frame, drop the pins, and connect the quick couplers with the engine off and pressure relieved.
Start, idle 5 minutes and check for leaks. Cycle the loader, the 3-point hitch, PTO engagement, both brake pedals, 4WD and the range shifter. Drive off the pallet in low range. For the first 50 hours avoid full-throttle sustained loads, then perform the first service (engine oil and filter, hydraulic filter, all fasteners re-torqued) to keep the warranty in force.
Remove the crate and wrap and check for damage. Unbolt the seat if shipped loose and fit it, then flip the ROPS up and pin it. Release the hydro transmission bypass levers (they are set to freewheel for loading) so the drive wheels engage. Raise the deck to its transport height.
Engines ship with oil in most cases, but verify on the dipstick; overfilling is as bad as running dry. Fill with fresh gasoline, connect the battery, and set tire pressures to the label (often 10 to 14 PSI rear, 15 to 20 front). Check that the blades are tight and the deck belt is seated on every pulley.
Sit down, set the parking brake, levers out, start the engine. Confirm the seat switch kills the engine if you rise with the blades engaged, and that the blades stop within 5 seconds of disengaging. Drive off the pallet with the deck up. Change the engine oil after the first 5 to 8 hours as the manual directs, then follow the normal service interval.
SAE and metric, 3/8" and 1/2" drive, up to 1-1/4" or 32 mm for lift anchors and pins.
1/2" drive, 30 to 250 ft-lb range. Every anchor, track bolt and ROPS fastener has a spec.
SDS-Plus with a 3/4" carbide bit for lift anchor holes. A regular hammer drill will struggle in cured slab.
Plus a chalk line and a framing square. Layout accuracy decides how a lift runs for the next 20 years.
Lift posts weigh 300 to 500 lb each. A hoist, forklift or two strong helpers to stand them safely.
Multi-purpose lithium grease, AW32 hydraulic oil, the engine oil grade in the manual, coolant, fresh fuel.
For banding, crate panels and stretch wrap. A flat bar makes lining up pin holes painless.
To move crated lifts and mowers into position. Excavators, skid steers and tractors drive off under their own power.
Safety glasses, cut-resistant gloves, steel-toe boots and hearing protection for the drill and the first start.
We work with a network of independent lift installers and equipment technicians across the 48 states. Tell us your zip code and the model and we quote a flat installation price before you order, or after delivery if you change your mind halfway through.
Insured, experienced with the brands we carry, and familiar with local anchoring and electrical codes.
One price covering labor, anchors and the final safety test. Electrical hookup quoted separately by a licensed electrician.
We book the installer for the week after your freight lands so the crate is not sitting in your driveway.
You get a signed installation and inspection report, which speeds up any future warranty claim.
Tick each item that is true for your bay. If any stay unchecked, fix them before the lift arrives; the two most expensive words in lift installation are "thin slab".
Work through the list. Your progress is saved on this device.
Setup support is free for every customer, for the life of the machine. Mon–Fri 9AM–6PM EST.